QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Please read this page in its entirety. It will answer a lot of commonly asked questions, and possibly even some that you have not yet thought of! It may seem like an excessive amount of info, but each topic is very important. Then please contact me with further or more detailed questions, and I will be more than happy to help you. No question is too large or too small; I am here to help you every step of the way.

• Q: What do we need to do to get started? Phone me! We will both have questions for each other! Next, (1) I will begin my paperwork on you and your pup, including a discussion about transportation options. (2) I will email you the Health Guarantee and Responsible Buyer's Agreement; you will digitally sign and email it back to me. (3) The deposit will be paid via Zelle, PayPal, or bank transfer. Then, every two weeks, I will email updated photos of the pup to you. You will use this time to get ready for the pup and to communicate with me.

Q: What are the terms of the deposit? All deposits of $300 are non-refundable (unless there is an illness or death of your chosen puppy, in which case I will refund your deposit). Deposits are payable via Zelle, PayPal, or bank wire transfers. You are welcome to contact me with any questions.

Q: At what time do I pay the balance due? The balance due is to be paid when the pup is 6 weeks old. If the balance due is not paid at 6 weeks, I will re-list the pup as available. (Note: if you are picking up your pup in person, you may pay the balance in cash if you wish.) Please be in communication with me about payments. I am easy to work with as long as you stay in contact! I welcome your questions anytime.

Q: At what age can the puppy leave? Pups are never allowed to leave before 8 weeks of age. There will occasionally be a pup who isn't ready to go at 8 weeks, in which case I will keep the pup as long as necessary with no boarding fee. Please discuss our pick up schedule before placing a deposit. If you are unable to pick up your pup on our agreed date, there will be a boarding fee of $5 per day. There will also be $25 for each additional vaccination that is needed during that time.

Q: What are our transportation options? Depending on my schedule, 1) The pup can travel with my preferred transport company for $550 flat rate (ground or air). 2) The pup can be picked up here (no fee). 3) We can drive up to 1 hour to meet you (no fee). 4) We can drive further (with a variable fee depending on current gas/hotel prices). 5) You can fly here and meet us at TXK airport (no fee). Please discuss these details with me at the time you place a deposit. We don't have to have every single detail in place immediately, but I do like to have an idea of how many pups I will be booking reservations for with Premier Pet Transport, my chosen transport company. They have a solid 5 star rating on Trust Pilot with 1,743 reviews and counting. https://www.trustpilot.com/review/pptbooking.com . Please note, they offer ground and air services but I only use their ground services.
If you are driving or flying to pick up your pup, bring a weewee pad and some baby wipes in case any of those things are needed. (If you are picking the pup up here, please bring a crate or- even better- someone to drive while you hold the pup.) In the summer, don't let the A/C vents blow right on the pup, or it may get too cold. In the winter, you will want to bring a little blanket to keep warm. I will supply a little bag of puppy kibble in case it gets hungry. You should provide some bottled water.

Q: Explain registration papers and pedigrees. My sires and dams are all registered with AKC. This registry keeps track of the genealogy or bloodlines of its dogs. If you plan to show your pup/dog in conformation events or sporting events, or if you have permission from me to someday breed your pup/dog, I will order AKC registration papers for an additional fee. It is then up to you to mail off these papers in order for your dog to be considered "registered". If you purchase your pup with a spay/neuter contract, then no registration papers are provided. A "pedigree" documents the name of each dog in each generation in your pup's family tree. If you purchase a pup with show/breeding rights and full AKC, you can request this pedigree from the registry at the time you send in the registration application papers.

Q: What is the difference between the vaccination record, health certificate, 48 hr vet check, and health guarantee? ~Each pup comes with a "health guarantee", legally binding, for your assurance that you are getting a healthy pup. I will email it to you with my digital signature at the time you place the deposit. You will then digitally sign it and email it back to me. I must have your signature before the pup can leave here. (See the Health Guarantee page). ~Each pup goes home with a "vaccination record", stating the date and type of vaccinations and wormers that have been administered to your pup, including the dates and types of future vaccines. You will need to take this vaccination record with you to your vet, so they can make copies for your records. ~Each pup leaves here with a "health certificate". My vet administers an exam, and issues a written health certificate verifying that the puppy is healthy and safe to travel. This is also legally required by all transporters before the pup can board an airplane or cross state lines, but all of my pups receive a health certificate before leaving here- for my own peace of mind- regardless of whether they are flying or not.

Q: Do you offer microchipping? Yes, microchipping is available for $25. If you would like it done, please request it by the time your pup is 7 weeks old. To register your chip, go to https://buddyid.com/.

Q: Should I choose a male or female? If this puppy will be the second dog added to your household, you must consider which gender will cohabit most congenially with the dog you have now. If you already have one female in the household, she will be the dominant, and the male will defer to her in most cases, thus eliminating power struggles. On the other hand, if you already have one female and you are getting a second, there is a chance that the two females at some point will have a disagreement if they both want to be the alpha female. This can lead to problem behavior. I would recommend a male/female pairing, or a male/male pairing (IF they are both neutered and there are no intact females to compete for) before a female/female pairing. As far as personalities go, I have found that the males stay affectionate, playful, and happy-go-lucky as the years go by, while the females become more dignified as they age. These are some things to consider when choosing which gender will work best in your household. IMPORTANT: There are some misconceptions about the difficulty of housebreaking males from hiking and marking; thus, the males are sometimes overlooked when a pup is chosen. If a male is neutered at 4 months of age, he has not reached sexual maturity and doesn't have the urge to mark his territory- so if you are interested in a male but unsure about whether it's doable, just ask me for more details.

Q: How difficult are IGs to housetrain? This is a very important topic! IGs are typically considered not to be the easiest breed to housetrain, simply because they don't like to go outside in inclement weather. However, now that weewee pad training is gaining in popularity, that option has made a BIG difference in the ease of housetraining IGs. They can go potty in the comfort of their own little dry potty area, instead of being at the mercy of the elements or waiting for you to notice that they need to be let outside. Please consult with me if you have questions about housetraining, and I will be happy to discuss details by phone and give you a detailed game plan. I tailor all advice to fit YOUR circumstances. This is not a one-size-fits-all topic! I will need to get some info from you before I formulate a plan for you specifically. Please phone me for this, as it's too extensive to be covered in an email. I prefer to also have a speakerphone conference with the whole family to discuss housetraining tips; consistency guarantees success when everyone is following the same game plan.

Q: What about vaccinations and wormings? The vaccination schedule for my pups is as follows: At 4 weeks, a Neopar shot. This is a high-titer parvo-only shot. It vaccinates against ALL known strains of parvo. It is not the cheapest, but it is the best parvo shot on the market today. This vaccination is a "must" due to our geographical location. At 6 weeks, a TruCan 5-way combination vaccination. At 8 weeks, another Neopar shot. The final two shots (5-way combo vaccine) will be due with your vet at 11 and 14 weeks . I will have those dates written down on the pup's Vaccination Record so that you can schedule it with your vet. No more shots will be needed until the rabies shot at 3-6 months, and a 5-way booster shot at one year of age. After this booster shot, NO MORE shots should be administered without a titer test. As long as the annual titer tests register a high immunological response, you DO NOT need to give annual booster shots. Regarding any other vaccinations, tell your vet NOT to give a 7-way shot or lepto on a pup less than 6 months old, if ever. Lepto is not a danger in most areas, and this shot can actually be harmful to pups, causing kidney damage, anaphylactic shock, and even death. Please watch the video about lepto vaccination on my Recommended page; it's the top link under Health/Medical. A Corona shot is also not needed or recommended, as per the Texas A&M Veterinary School. Different vets have different opinions on vaccinations and schedules, but you do have a choice and can specify which shots you wish to use. Also, some vets will automatically start over on vaccinations because "those breeders just SAY they gave shots but didn't, so I will start over to make sure". Well, THIS breeder provides a record of exactly which shots were given and on which date, including the vial sticker with the Lot # and Exp date. These records are accurate and complete! As for worming, the pups are wormed with both pyrantel pamoate and fenbendazole. That info will also be on the Health Record. My pups all have a clean fecal exam before leaving here. Ask me about maintenance worming.

Q: What should I feed my puppy? You may choose from the list of puppy kibble on my Food Page. These are quality formulas that I use and recommend. IGs have higher metabolisms than other toy breeds, so you must tailor their diet specifically for their special nutritional needs, taking into account the first year, at least. (Some of my bloodlines need it well into their adult years, too, in order to keep their weight up.) Read the dog food label to be sure it has this high ratio of fat. If it does not, you should add 1 to 2 teaspoons of flaxseed oil, olive oil, or coconut oil daily to boost the fat percentage. Also, read the protein percentage on the label. The protein should be at 27% to 30%. Never feed canned dog food; it usually has only about 8% protein and is mostly just moisture. High-quality feed is absolutely essential! An IG pup should stay on a puppy formula for at least the first full year of its life. I rotate feeds in order to give my dogs a variety. But remember, that just because a dog eats a certain brand with gusto does not mean that it's the best nutrition! Some are loaded with salt and artificial flavors but are lacking in nutrition. And just because a dog eats a smaller amount of a certain brand, it doesn't mean that the dog doesn't like the food; it might mean that the food isn't full of 'fillers' and is therefore satisfying the dog for a longer period of time, before feeling hungry for the next meal. Besides the obvious health benefits, another good reason to feed a high-quality feed is less poop scooping. They will be able to digest and utilize more of the food, thus eating LESS, therefore less will be coming out the other end. The stools will be firmer and fewer. The extra money that you may spend on high-quality food will be saved in lower volume food bought, and lower vet bills down the road. Regarding the current "grain-free" fad, in some cases, a dog may have allergies or sensitivities to certain grains and certain proteins. Unless your dog is allergic or sensitive to a specific grain or allergen, there is no need to avoid them. Remember, our goal is a BALANCED diet. The grain-free diet can do more harm than good in some cases, as it has been linked to dilated cardiomyopathy. https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/nutrition/fda-grain-free-diet-alert-dcm/ When you switch feeds, always mix the old and new brand half/half for the first week to give the dog/puppy's tummy time to make the adjustment, or diarrhea will occur. Also, in the first month in the puppy's new home, he should be fed a teaspoon of plain UNSWEETENED yogurt each day. It provides beneficial bacteria to the digestive tract, which helps prevent stress-induced coccidia. (Actually, I prefer that you give this to the pup longer than the first month; mine are on it for life.) Bottled water should be given to the pup for the first week, also while it adjusts to the new environment.

Q: How much should I feed my puppy? You should begin feeding your pup on a strict schedule three times a day for the first month home, encouraging them to eat all that they can in each meal. Then switch to two times a day. Please phone me to discuss this topic in more detail, as it is so very important.

Q: What about supplements? I use and strongly recommend the NuVet immune system builder and supplements. These supplements are of a MUCH higher quality than any others I have found. They truly will make a big difference in the vigor and health of your pup. I include a sample of the supplement along with your paperwork when you receive your new puppy. If you keep your pup on the K9 Wafers, I will extend the two-year health guarantee to cover four years. You may click here to order: http://www.nuvet.com/90085 Alternatively, you can phone 1.(800) 474-7044 and use Order Code 90085. Look for the K9 Wafers or the K9 Powder. You can see more information about NuVet on the lower section of my Food page.