Please read this page in it's entirety. It will answer a lot of commonly asked questions, and possibly even some that you have not yet thought of! It may seem like an excessive amount of info, but each topic is very important. Then please contact me with further or more detailed questions and I will be more than happy to help you. 
No question is too large or too small... I am here to help you every step of the way.

I have researched the breed and decided an iggy is right for me. 
Now what? 

Q- What do we need to do to get started? 
After you choose which pup you are interested in, phone me. I will need to chat with you and discuss details before approving you for the  purchase. Next... (1) I will begin my paperwork on you and your pup, including discussion about transportation options.  (2) I will email to you an invoice for the deposit. (3) I will email to you the Health Guarantee and Responsible Buyer's Agreement; you will digitally sign and email back to me. Then, every two weeks, I will email updated photos of the pup to you. You will use this time to get ready for the pup and to ask me questions. 

Q- What are the terms of the deposit? 
All deposits are non-refundable (unless there is an illness or death of  your chosen puppy, in which case I will refund your deposit). Deposits are payable via PayPal with credit cards accepted. WalMart MoneyGram is an option too, or you may send a personal check via overnite express.  Bank to bank wire transfers are accepted also.

Q- At what time do I pay the balance due and shipping? 
The balance due and shipping charges are to be  paid when the pup is 6 weeks old. If the balance due and shipping are not paid at 6 weeks, I will re-list the pup as available. Please be in communication with me about payments. I am easy to work with as long as you are staying in contact! (Note- if you are picking up your pup in person, you may pay the balance in cash at that time.)

Q- I have never had a pup flown to me. How does that work? 
Shipping is a flat rate $350. This covers the airline ticket plus additional fees- booking agent fee, Paypal fees twice (receiving and paying), crate, bedding, FAA required certificate, and expenses for the 3 hr round trip to the airport. (Sometimes shipping may include the expense of a dogsitter if I must drive 11 hours round trip to Dallas to fly pups internationally.) 
I generally use United Airlines. They provide climate controlled transportation at all points along the way. United's main hub has kenneling facilities on-site at the  Bush Intercontinental Airport in Houston. Vet techs are on hand 24/7 at their 1100 sq ft kenneling facilities. The pups do not travel with the cargo! The planes have pressurized climate controlled holds for the pups, so no matter how hot or cold it is, the pup is kept at a comfortable temperature. When I check-in the pups at the airport, they are held in the office until the very last minute before being carried by hand to a heated/cooled van and driven out on the tarmac to the plane. (No sitting on the  hot/cold tarmac on a baggage cart while everything else is loaded/unloaded.) When the plane arrives at its destination, the pups are the first thing carried off by hand and driven again via heated/cooled van, straight into an indoor office. They are attended by airline employees at all points of the journey, and offered food/water as needed. 

On flight day, you will arrive at the airport (I will email instructions on exactly where to go) and pick up your baby and call me! Your paperwork will be in an envelope taped to the crate. A small amount of puppy food will be inside the crate and also on top of the crate inside a little bag. Offer your pup some water as soon as you get out of the airport and into your vehicle. Offer food too, if the pup has already eaten all the food inside it's crate or if you have a long  drive before you get home.

Q- How does shipping work on your end? 
I make all the flight arrangements and email them to you. I usually ship out of Shreveport LA. It is a 3 hour round-trip drive for me; therefore I have to plan ahead and choose a date of flight that fits well with my schedule. Sometimes I fly pups to Canada out of Dallas / Fort Worth, which is an 11 hr round-trip for me.

Q- At what age can the puppy leave? 
Pups are usually ready to go at 8 weeks of age. If you are unable to pick up your pup at 8 weeks of age, there will be a boarding fee of $5 per day, at my discretion, unless prior arrangements are  made. Please discuss this schedule before placing a deposit. There will also be $25 for each additional  vaccination that is needed during that time.
There will occasionally be a pup who isn't ready to go at 8 wks, in which case I will keep the pup as long as necessary with no boarding fee.

Q- What are our transportation options? 
Depending on my schedule, 1)The pup can be picked up here, 2)We can each drive halfway and meet, 3)You can fly here and meet me at the closest  airport, or 4)The pup can be flown via airline to an airport near you. Please arrange these details with me at the time you place a deposit. Please note: if I drive to meet you at a halfway point, there will be a per-mile charge to cover my expenses. This rate is subject to change, as gas prices fluctuate.

Q- What should I bring with me to pick up my pup? 
For the trip home, here are some important things to remember. Your pup has not finished it's complete vaccination schedule unless you are getting it at 11 weeks of age. It will not have full immunization protection against diseases/parasites it can encounter out in public. Therefore, on the way home DO NOT let your puppy out to pee or exercise in rest areas or high traffic areas. Find an out-of-the-way place to make a pit stop, if you must. A better idea is to bring some weewee pads to lay out in the floorboard or in the back of your pickup truck and let the pup do it's business there, then throw the papers away. That way you can be sure that the pup is not picking up any communicable diseases/parasites from the last dog who used  the bathroom on that spot of ground. (I don't  want to sound paranoid, but better safe than sorry with a puppy of that age. Also, limit your puppy's social  life to your house and yard until 11 wks of age.)
For the trip home, bring a weewee pad and some baby wipes in case any of those things are needed. (If you are picking the pup up here, please bring a crate or- even  better- someone to drive while you hold the pup.) In the  summer, don't let the A/C vents blow right on the pup or it may catch a cold. In the winter, you will want to  bring a little blanket to keep it warm. I will supply a little bag of puppy kibble in case it gets hungry. You  should  provide some bottled water.

Q- Why the difference in prices for some litters? 
It usually depends on the size of the parents, the color, gender, and markings of each pup, as well as show and pet quality.

Q- Explain registration papers and pedigrees. 
My sires and dams are all registered with AKC. This registry keeps track of the genealogy or bloodlines of its dogs. If you plan to show your pup/dog in conformation events or sporting events, or if you have permission from me to someday breed your pup/dog, I will order AKC registration papers for an additional fee. It is then up to you to mail off these papers in order for your dog  to be considered "registered". If you purchase your pup with a spay/neuter contract, then no registration papers are provided.
A "pedigree" documents the name of each dog in each generation in your pup's family tree. You can request this pedigree from the registry at the time you send in the registration application papers.  

Q- What is the difference between the vaccination record, health certificate, 48 hr vet check, and  h
ealth  guarantee? 
Each pup comes with a "vaccination record", stating the date and type of vaccinations and wormers  that have been administered to your pup, along with any medicines or medical procedures, if any.
You will need to take your vaccination record with you to your 48 hr vet check so that your vet has this information too. This "48 hr vet check" must be done by your vet in order to validate our health guarantee.
Each pup comes with a "health guarantee", legally binding, for your assurance that you are getting a healthy pup.  I will email it to you with my digital signature. You will then digitally sign it also and email back to me. I must have your signature before the pup can leave here. View the Health Guarantee here:
Health Guarantee .  
Each pup leaves here with a health certificate. A "health certificate" is filled out by my vet upon examination, verifying that the puppy is healthy and safe to travel. This is also required by any commercial transport company before the pup can board the airplane or cross state lines but all pups receive a health certificate before leaving here, regardless of whether they are flying or not.

Q- Do you offer microchipping? 
Yes, microchipping is available for $25. If you would like it done, please request it by the time your pup is 7 weeks old. To register your chip, go to .

Q- Should I choose a male or female? 
If this puppy will be the second dog  added to your household, you must consider which gender will cohabit most congenially with the dog you have now. If you already have one female in the household,  she will be the dominant and the male will defer to her in most cases, thus eliminating most  chances of a power struggle. On the other hand, if you already have one female and you are getting a second, there is a chance that the two females at some point will have a  clash of personalities if they both want to be the alpha female. This can lead to actual fights. I would recommend a male/female pairing, or even a male/male pairing (IF they are both neutered and there are NO cycling females to fight over) before a female/female pairing. As far as  personalities go, I have found that the males stay affectionate, playful, and happy-go-lucky as the years go by, while the females become more dignified as they age. These are all some things to consider when choosing which gender will work best in  your household.
There are some misconceptions about the difficulty of  housebreaking males from hiking and marking, thus the males are sometimes overlooked when a pup is chosen. If a male is neutered at 4 months of age, he has not reached sexual maturity and doesn't have the urge to mark his territory- so if you are interested in a male but unsure about whether it's do-able, just ask me for more details.

Q- How difficult are IGs to housetrain? 
This is a very important topic! IGs are typically considered not to be the easiest breed to housetrain, simply because they don't like to go outside in inclement weather. However, now that weewee pad training is gaining in popularity, that option has made a BIG difference in the ease of housetraining IGs. They can go potty in the comfort of their own little dry potty area, instead of being at the mercy of the  elements or waiting for you to notice that they need to be let outside. Please consult with me  if you have questions about housetraining and I will be happy to discuss details by phone and give you a detailed game plan. I tailor all advice to fit YOUR circumstances. This is not a one-size-fits-all topic! I will need to get some info from you before I formulate a plan for you specifically. Please phone me for this, as it's too extensive to be covered in email. I prefer to also have a speakerphone conference with the whole family to discuss housetraining tips; consistency guarantees success when everyone is following the same game plan.

Q- What about vaccinations and wormings? 
Get ready for a crash course in vaccinations. This is a topic that I am passionate about and I want my buyers to fully understand the importance of it too. This is one issue that can have a serious affect on your pup's/dog's life and health. Here is an overall view of the schedule; I will discuss more details with you by phone.
The vaccination schedule for my pups is as follows: At 4 weeks, a Neopar shot. This is  a high titer parvo-only shot. It vaccinates against ALL known strains of parvo. It is not the cheapest but it is the best parvo shot on the market today. At 6 weeks, a Nobivac 5-way vaccination. At 8 weeks, another Neopar shot. The final two shots will be due with your vet at 11 and 14 weeks (5-way combo shot). I will have those date written down on the pup's
Vaccination Record so that you can schedule it with your vet. No more shots will be needed until the rabies shot at 3-6 months, and a 5-way booster shot at one year of age. After this booster shot, NO MORE shots should be administered without a titer test. As long as the annual titer tests register a high immunological response, you DO NOT need to give annual booster shots.
Regarding any other vaccinations- Tell your vet NOT to give a 7-way shot or lepto on a pup less than 6 months old, if ever. Lepto is not a danger in most areas and this shot can actually be harmful to pups, causing kidney damage, anaphylactic shock, and even death. Please watch the video about lepto vaccination; it's the top link under Health/Medical on my
LINKS page. A Corona shot is also not needed or recommended, as per the Texas A&M Veterinary School. Different vets have  different opinions on vaccinations and schedules, but you DO have a choice and can specify which shots to give your dog and at what time. Also, some vets will automatically start over on vaccinations because "those breeders just SAY they gave shots but didn't, so I will start over to make sure". Well, THIS breeder provides a record of exactly which shots were given and on which date, including the vial sticker with the Lot # and Exp date. These records are accurate and complete! Please do not over-vaccinate, as it can  be very harmful. Do some  research on the subject and you will agree with me on the  importance of correct vaccinations schedules.
As for worming, the pups are wormed with both pyrantel pamoate and fenbendazole. That info will also be on the Health Record which will be taped to the crate for those pups who are flying. My pups all have a clean fecal exam before leaving here; a fecal exam is performed by my vet. Ask your vet about maintenance worming.

Q- What should I feed my puppy? 
You may choose from the list of puppy kibble on my
Food Page . These are quality formulas that I use and recommend. IGs have higher metabolisms than other toy breeds so you must tailor their diet specifically for their special nutritional needs, taking into consideration each pup/dog's age and lifestyle. IG pups need a full 20% fat content food for the first year, at least. (Some of my bloodlines need it well into their adult years too, in order to keep their weight up.) Read the dog food label to be sure it has this high ratio of fat. If it does not, you should add 1 to 2 teaspoons of flaxseed oil, olive oil, or coconut oil daily to boost the fat percentage.
Also read the  protein percentage on the label. The protein should be at 27% to 30%. Never feed canned dog food... it  usually has only about 8% protein and is mostly just moisture. High quality feed is absolutely essential! 
An IG pup should stay on a puppy  formula for at least the first full year of its life. I rotate feeds in order to give my adult dogs a variety. But remember, that just because a dog eats a certain brand with gusto does not mean that it's the best nutrition! Some are loaded with salt and artificial flavors but are lacking in nutrition. And just because a dog eats a smaller amount of a certain brand, doesn't mean that the dog doesn't like the food- it might mean that the food isn't full of 'fillers' and is therefore satisfying the dog for a longer period of time, before feeling hungry for the next meal. 
Besides the obvious health benefits, another good reason to feed a high quality feed: less poop scooping. They will be able to digest and utilize more of the food thus eating LESS, therefore less will be coming out the other end. The stools will be firmer and fewer. The extra money that you may spend on high quality food will be saved in lower volume food bought, and lower vet bills down the road.
Regarding the current "grain free" fad- in some cases a dog may have allergies or sensitivities to certain grains and certain proteins. Unless your dog is allergic or sensitive to a specific grain or allergy, there is no need to avoid them. Remember, our goal is a BALANCED diet. The grain free diet can do more harm than good in some cases, as it has been linked to Dilated CardioMyopathy.  .
When you switch feeds, always mix the old and new brand half/half for the first week to give the dog/puppy's tummy time to make the adjustment, or diarrhea will occur.
Also, the first month in the puppy's new home, he should be fed a teaspoon of plain UNSWEETENED yogurt each day. It provides beneficial bacteria to the digestive tract, which  helps prevent stress induced coccidia. (Actually, I prefer that you give this to the pup longer than the first month... mine are on it for life.) Bottled water should be given the pup for the first week also while it adjusts to the new environment.

Q- How much should I feed my puppy? 
You should begin feeding your pup on a strict schedule twice a day, encouraging them to eat all that they can in each meal.  Please phone me to discuss this topic in more detail, as it is so very important.

Q- What about supplements? 
​I use and strongly recommend the NuVet immune system builder and supplements. These supplements are of a MUCH higher quality than any others I have found. They truly will make a big difference in the vigor and health of your pup. I include a sample of the supplement along with  your paperwork when  you receive your new puppy. If you will keep your pup on the K9 Wafers, I will extend the two year health guarantee to cover four years.

You may  click here to order  .

Alternatively, you can phone ​
1-800-474-7044 and use Order Code 90085. Look for the K9 Wafers or the K9 Powder. You can see more information about NuVet on the lower section of my Food page.